CDMX header

When the guy at the check-in counter saw me he didn’t say: “your passport please”. He said: “miss, go to sleep miss”. If only he knew what I’d done the night before he would take my backpack and put me straight on the stretchers. It’s a kind of miracle I got on the right plane and actually made it.

Mexico can be weird….or I would rather say: peculiar, yeah…

…driving the tube In Mexico. It feels as if I was in the Bronx, but somewhere in the 80’s – at least this is what I’ve seen in the movies. Shady creatures wrapped in puffy jackets and wool caps are staring at my shorts and sleeveless top truly amazed. How could I know, that Mexico can be sometimes cold? Half conscious after an EPIC goodbye to Playa del Carmen, I’m looking at them more fascinated than scared. Eyes wide open, slowly tilting my head to the side, trying to rehydrate all that’s been lost in a battle against mezcal with a mixture of salt-and-lemon water.  I’m on my way to the Magic Room, where my next host is already guiding ayahuasca session.
I’m starting to think, that my life is pretty interesting.

Organ-grinder in front of a cathedral in Coyoacan district.

Coyoacan sweets.

Bizzare bazar

CDMX – Ciudad de Mexico – the big capital city with well-developed public communication system: bus, metrobus and metro, which could definitely be called something like a “Market on Rails”. An underground maze of corridors surrounding Ciudad’s subway stations, and also, trains itself, are bursting with hundreds of vendors selling everything from chocolate, through headphones to short English courses and Santa’s hats. The air is sweet with churros, glazed popcorn and filled with their shouts:
“Cinco pesos, solo cinco pesos!”
(pic. Each metro station in CDMX has its own pictogram which makes it easier to remember, especially for foreigners visiting the city).

Hunger hours

Right after the noon, the streets of CDMX start being covered by small food stalls. Shrines of yumminess show one after another and quickly get surrounded by swarms of lunching Mexicans. Quesadillas, tortillas, a variety of pastries – all consumed usually standing or sitting on the sides of buildings closeby. A veritable feast of melting cheese, aromatic chorizo and salsas. Very tasty, and very unhealthy.

Quesadilla.

Quesadilla con chorizo.

What surprised me the most was the massive amount of Oaxaca cheese packed into every flour tortilla. Impressive 200 or even 300 grammes of stretching mass, make Sunday-pizza-sins look like something absolutely innocent.

My ass is getting bigger only from looking at this picture…

 

Timing is everything

 

          As I mentioned before, Mexico City can be f***in’  cold (2.250 MAMSL)! Arriving with a bunch of shorts, singlets, and one denim jacket I thought I was never going to use, I faced a serious problem for every girl: how to survive one month with only 3 outfits? Buying any new stuff would end up with another crisis called “how to squeeze all of my clothes into a 16kg backpack”.

Taxco. Just 3hrs bus ride from CDMX – and the weather is much better. Just in case you were cold.

And the bus ride is pretty enjoyable.

More Taxco.

Taxco.

Taxi Taxco.

What’s more: Mexicans rather don’t use radiators, which means, that if you’re about to meet leaky windows on your way, when the temperature outside will drop to 10’C, even double pants and triple blanket won’t be enough.

That’s why I was working “dressed” like this.

Drink drank drunk

How about warming up a bit? In a restaurant, along with delicious food, you can indulge yourself with a variety of beer cocktails, another thing that blew my mind. Among brewed treats you can find:
Clamato – an essence made out of tomato juice and clam broth, add it to your beer along with chilli and other spices.

Gomichela.

Michelada- beer, lime juice, and assorted sauces, spices, and peppers, served in a chilled, salt-rimmed glass
Gomichela – beer, lemon juice, miguelito chamoy, clamato, Worcestershire sauce, tabasco, gummy bears, soy sauce – sounds disgusting, right? 😀

But I tried it, still alive. Clamato is even actually tasty – but hangovers after pouring into yourself loads of spices, chilli and salt – that, is a torture.

Hangover enchiladas.

Yum.

Call me mezcal.

You think Mexico, you say tequila? Not exactly. Wandering through the streets of Coyoacan – a fashionable, hipstery place great for spending your Friday night – you won’t see it. But what you WILL see is mezcal – (a distilled alcoholic beverage made from any type of agave plant native to Mexico). Depends on what’s in the jar: thyme, juniper – sometimes even cheese and spices, that make it taste like…pizza. The secret is to blow some air on the top of your tongue right after consumption to get rid of the itchy alcohol feeling.

Yes: you blow on your tongue yourself, and it’s easier than it sounds.

 

City street walking

What drew my attention was that Mexicans are very emotional! Strolling down te alleys of Parco Mexico, one of my favourite spots in CDMX, I was blown away by numerous people sitting on the wooden benches hugging, crying and kissing. In my world, where everyone just runs to be somewhere on time, because of something, that would be unimaginable! Here: take your time, we can cuddle and then you’ll cry on my shoulder. Maybe it’s because of the latino “ma?ana”, or maybe, they understand the priorities in life better?

Plaza de la República.

Inner part.

I saw them on the way to the French Cemetery, near Medicos station.

And I couldn’t take pictures at the cemetery, but if you’d ever have a chance to go there – go. It’s amazing.

 

Stay safe.

 

It hit me after a while. It was late afternoon and I was enjoying my coffee in a small cafeteria on avenida Amsterdam, when suddenly the peaceful picture was interrupted by quite an exceptional thing that happened. Namely, a giant combat car adorned with 15 or 20 soldiers, all carrying long guns entered the scene, accompanied by the birds singing their lovely songs. And then, glittering in evening rays of sunset – another one.

…what-the-heeeeelll…..?
“Excuse me, is that normal or something?” – I asked the waiter.
“Oh yes” – he replied cheerfully – ” No need to worry. We have a lot of riots and crime, so that’s why”.
Oh well, thank you! Riots and crime, I’m cool as a cucumber now. And calm like a lily on the surface of a moth*****g lake!.

Pyramid of the Sun.

On the way back home I passed many more battle-trucks. And pretty impressive groups of policemen wearing black uniforms, heavy shoes, helmets and hiding behind tall shields. However, it could sound unbelievable – I felt safe. Hard to say if that was because of it all, or despite it, but I did.
Mexicans are lovely people with big and warm hearts. Usually not knowing a word in English, usually staring at you as if you were a living doll, that was magically brought to life and now is walking among them.

Very tattooed.
Very Arty.
Very Cute.

And despite I spent there a whole month – I feel like I know nothing. Mexico is an ocean of exquisite culture that will literally blow your mind. So nevertheless there are so many places I still haven’t been to, I already feel like coming back 😉

Taxco.

Ordering food with Google translator – like a boss.